Beginner's Guide: Rock Climbing

Getting Started

Climbing is one of the simplest sports to get started in. There are plenty of indoor facilities dedicated to climbing throughout New Zealand. Their staff are trained to introduce you into the sport of climbing, ensuring you have a safe and enjoyable experience. Your first movement in your upwards quest should most likely start with a visit to one of these climbing facilities.

When you turn up to a climbing centre the staff will start by fitting you with a harness. The harness is one of the most important parts of your climbing equipment; it connects your body with the rope that protects you in case of a fall. Most climbing centres will have a very basic model of harness, but when you advance a little in the sport you can head to a local climbing shop where you can purchase one of the many different types. Choose a fully-padded harness that has lots of adjustment options (important for children) so that it is comfortable to hang around in. Most good climbing shops will have somewhere that you can put the harness on and literally hang around on a rope to try it out. Make sure you find it comfortable as during the early stages of your climbing career you may find yourself hanging around a fair bit!

Once you have purchased or hired a harness, it is recommended you get some climbing shoes. Climbing centres will have some basic models available for hire in your size. Your first pair should be comfortable and staff will help you choose the correct size. As your technique and skill level advance you may choose to wear a shoe size slightly smaller than your normal size, this restricts the amount of movement within the shoe, thus helping you to stand on small edges and smooth terrain on the wall or rock..

When you purchase your first pair of shoes make sure you put on both shoes and try them out as people often find one foot is a different size to the other – particularly noticeable as you start to wear smaller shoes. Climbing shops often have a small climbing board that you can try the shoes out on, and climbing centres will often have a selection of shoes for purchase and sometimes a second-hand bargain can be found for beginners. Top quality brand-names include La Sportiva, Five Ten, Boreal and Scarpa.

Following the purchase of these two essential pieces of climbing gear the rest can take some time to acquire. As always, seek professional advice from a climbing facility or climbing shop before you part with your money. Ropes, carabineers, quick-draws, and belay devices are all but some of the ‘bling’ that you may require in the future.

Perhaps the indoor version of climbing is not quite what you are after, and the great outdoors has a bit more appeal? The first thing to realise is that while going for a climb indoors gives you some of the basic skills, outdoor climbing needs more advanced techniques, more gear and a good understanding of risk management and the potential hazards of climbing outdoors. It is essential that you get some training and assistance from a qualified climbing guide, instructor or an experienced climber. Guides are available throughout the country, and can be found though your local indoor climbing facility.

Climbing is an exhilarating, safe sport that develops all-over physical fitness and mental skills, a sport than can challenge you from your youthful days through until your retirement, with challenges at every level along the way. Get out there and give it a go – you will not be disappointed.

Climbing areas

New Zealand is blessed with well developed climbing areas spread the length and breadth of the country. Getting started in the outdoors can be a challenge in itself, but nothing that cannot be surmounted. Climbing in wild places clearly involves elements of risk, so contact an experienced climber or a guide to take you on your first trip. A good place to find someone is at your local climbing gym or outdoors shop. Here are some climbing areas from around New Zealand that are best suited to introductory outdoor climbing:

Greater Auckland

“The Quarry”
(Located in the fields of Auckland Grammar School.) Believe it or not this is one of the birthplaces of New Zealand climbing and where some of the original heroes of the New Zealand climbing world were groomed. Pick up a climbing guide from local climbing centre Extreme Edge or visit their website at www.extremeedge.co.nz

The Waikato

“Wharepapa”
The Spectacular ignimbrite rock formations have been scaled for years and with thousands of climbing routes in the general area it is one of the easiest places in New Zealand to get started. You will have no trouble finding a guide to show you the ropes.
First stop when you get to the legendary village of Wharepapa South should always be “Bryces Rockclimbing Cafe” – (phone 07-872-2533). If it’s raining you can enjoy a coffee and some fun on the inside bouldering wall - of course the fun really starts when you get outside.
The team at Bryces will be able to give you local information on conditions and help you locate some of the best climbing spots. The crags of Wharepapa South and Froggatt Edge are ideal challenges for beginners with guides available from either “Bryces Rockclimbing Café” or the team at “CastleRock Adventure” (phone 07 872-2509 or visit www.castlerockadventure.co.nz. Accommodation is available in the Wharepapa village.

Central North Island

“The Bay” – Small Pocks, Tibia, Dr Funkenclimb are the names of just a few of the five hundred climbs at Whanganui Bay. Located on the western shores of Lake Taupo it is a truly special place. The location will take your breath away, the people will inspire you with their humanity and Aroha, and the climbing is like the icing on the cake.
The area is popular with university climbing groups for their Introduction to Rock Climbing courses. Attending one of these courses is a great way to get started. Otherwise, find yourself a guide from one of the local climbing gyms like the team from The Rockhouse (www.therockhouse.co.nz).

Safety/Technique

Guides & Instructors: So how do you know if a guide or instructor is professionally trained? The New Zealand Outdoor Instructors Association provides a rock climbing qualification and the minimum standard you should look for is NZOIA Rock I. An experienced climber that is known to you may be another suitable alternative, and organisations such as the New Zealand Alpine Club (www.alpineclub.org.nz) run outdoor climbing courses.

Helmet: A helmet can be your best friend when you are climbing outside. Small rocks have been known to fly out of the sky and narrowly miss climbers - or hit them. Modern helmets are light but capable of protecting you from falling objects or impact against the rock during a fall. While you are being guided you should expect to be provided with a well-fitting helmet. While it may not be the most stylish looking accessory in the world, you may be thankful for it later.

Technique: The best two bits of advice you will get while climbing is to climb in diagonals (with opposite hand and foot on the rock at a time), and to keep moving your feet up. If you remember these two small pieces of information you will be able to keep powering up the rock or indoor wall. Excellent advice often comes for free from climbing centres. They are a great place to develop your climbing skills in a less challenging environment.

Safety: A vital part of your safety is the belayer – the person who is holding the rope at the bottom of the wall or rock. It usual practice to climb with a partner and alternate between belaying and climbing. When you are the belayer it is important that you pay attention to your climber and remember to follow all instructions that you get from your instructor. Cell phones, conversations and belaying don’t mix well.

Climbing New Zealand: Climbing New Zealand is the National Sporting Organisation responsible for competition climbing in New Zealand. Competitions are held throughout New Zealand, organised by local climbing clubs. Visit www.climbing.co.nz for more information.

Kids Climbing Clubs: Local climbing clubs run workshops in technique and development especially tailored for youth climbers. Your local climbing centre will have more information on clubs in your area, or visit the clubs page at the Climbing New Zealand website.

Climbing Story:

Mark O'Connor - Kachoong

Kachoong is just one of those climbs. An undeniable classic with a reputation that proceeds itself, long before you even reach Mt. Arapiles. I had heard the name mentioned in revered tones shortly after I began climbing the gyms and crags around Christchurch. Its name is synonymous with Victorias infamous Mt Arapiles. ‘If you go to Arapiles, you have to climb Kachoong’. And now here I was; walking around nervously, sun beating down, summer flies buzzing my face. I was trying to get myself psyched, focussed, amped – however you want to describe the mental preparation that was going on.
I had led an 18 to warm up and it hadn’t gone well. Kachoong is graded 21. It would be the hardest grade I had attempted on traditional gear (this means placing nuts and cams in cracks for protection). It’s a short climb; and apparently over graded (not as difficult as the grade suggests). Eventually Steve got sick of my wimpy procrastinating, “Stop stuffing about and just climb the bloody thing” he grumbled, like only an Aussie can. I checked my gear for the tenth time, swallowed hard, and stepped out over a ten metre drop. The first few metres are simple, an easy skip over positive holds chalked up so much they stand out like neon lights. And then you hit the roof – 5 metres across and perfectly perpendicular to the main wall. Luckily there is a beautiful flake which you can lay back off and jam your feet into as your shuffle your way across to the lip.
The advice about this section had been quite uniform – don’t muck around. So I didn’t. I clipped an old rusty piton, placed a perfect number 4 cam and went for it. I’m not a fast climber. Normally I plod my way up like a disabled tortoise. But for those few brief moments I really hustled, wedging my feet in the flake and moving hand over hand to the ledge. Heaving and puffing I reached the edge and made ready to pull myself over onto the next vertical section of rock. Grasping hopefully, I found a couple of good pockets for my flailing fingers and kicked my feet around, ending up in a sort of yoga crouch just above the roof. But I couldn’t hold it. My right foot floundered around as my arms powered down within a matter of seconds. “Take!” I screamed, moments before my whole body peeled off the rock like a piece of salami, and I hurtled through the air in a giant pendulum.
My heart started up again as a swung into the rock from the gear I had placed. It had held. Ten minutes later and I was ready for attempt number two. I normally feel more confident after a big fall - but back at the roof - that confidence began to diminish. Again, I dropped a gear and motored. Reaching over the lip I could feel my arms starting to wane. Knowing I had to make it this time I reached high and kicked my feet around, landing in the same crouching position. This time my feet stuck to good ledges, allowing me to grope for higher holds with my hands. Forearms bursting with pressure, I frantically grasped for something decent. I was breathing hard, totally focussed and completely fearful of another fall. My left hand found a nice little pincher and I put as much squeeze into those fingers as my muscles could muster. My right hand hit a nice jug and I stood up with a surge of relief. ‘Wooooo!’ I screamed, as a rush of relief stormed through me.
I was past the crux and back onto easy cliff. Five more metres and I was at the top. They say you either do two things when you climb Kachoong – you either blast straight up it, or fall from the lip. In my two attempts, I managed to achieve both.